Anyone who has walked into chef Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen’s bright spot off of South Broadway knows it’s special. Built as a hybrid service model with a counter to order at, a long bar to sidle up to, high tops lining the window, and comfortable booths on the side, MAKfam marries the idea of a Chinese takeout joint with a hip Asian hang. It’s unapologetic in embracing MSG. And the food offers a true kick and tingle to keep you thinking long after the meal has ended.
“The most important thing is we built a space not only to share our food and culture, but uplift the Asian culture here,” said Yuen.
Feel her sentiment in the food, the decor, and the chef. All work in harmony to create one of the best causal eating experiences in Denver.
The Chef of MAKfam
Kenneth Wan’s parents didn’t want him to be a chef, even though he grew up in the family restaurant. It was a hole-in-the-wall, takeout Chinese place, he said, and cooking was something he loved to do.
Eventually he got their blessing to forgo the solid careers of doctor or lawyer, and moved to New York City in 2010 to go to culinary school. From there he worked in the city at known places including Hillstone and chef David Chang’s Momofuku and Ssam Bar.
Like many transplant stories, Wan moved to Colorado because he loved it. His first introduction to the Mile High City came through his sister, who lived in the area. The couple would visit her and over the years they found they enjoyed the vibe. Finally, they thought it would work well for their shared restaurant goals.
“We felt there would be a niche in the market for our concepts,” said Wan. “There are plenty of excellent Vietnamese, excellent Japanese, but with all the good Asian food, we thought there would be room for us too.”
The chef shows a good eye for trends and recognizing what was missing from the dining scene. In NYC, Wan cooked for Chang’s places at a time when classic Chinese, Japanese, and Korean dishes were becoming elevated, sometimes to the fine dining level, and seen as something beyond the takeout counters and cheap food spots most Americans associated with non-sushi establishments. Asian food was becoming cool in a way it hadn’t maintained before.
The chef recalled when the former New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells came into Ssam Bar. Chang, said Wan, spent little time at his restaurants, and even less time in the kitchen. But once he heard Wells was in the house, he rushed over to “cook” for the critic. Wan was given the dry-aged ribeye to prepare.
“It was super chaotic, we all worked in a rhythm, but to have Dave there, it was chaotic,” said Wan, adding that the steak was flawless. “Dave gave me a high five, he took it to Wells, and I am just glad I cooked the steak perfectly.”
That sort of chaos doesn’t jive at MAKfam. Wan and Yuen are there to cook and support the staff just about every day. The restaurant runs a bit different too, built as a hybrid service model. While the food gets delivered by servers to the table, diners order the meal at the front counter.
Overall, said Wan, he has learned how to manage a larger team, and to listen to what the customers are saying. He can be found running around the restaurant and kitchen most days, and if you see an adorable toddler popping up here and there rest assured, her parents are right behind her. In a way, Wan and Yuen are giving their daughter Autumn what the chef had growing up, the chance to be a true restaurant kid.
The Restaurant
The husband and wife team moved to Colorado in 2019 and opened Meta Asian Kitchen inside Avanti Food & Beverage in Denver. While there, the chef worked on his recipes, often showcasing his mom’s food and bringing out bold Sichuan flavors. Both Wan and Yuen also paid special attention to the art of MSG, determined to break the stereotype the ingredient wrongfully held for decades (read more about that here).
For a few years, the couple saved up money in order to open up their first brick and mortar. Hence, MAKfam launched on South Broadway in November, 2023.
Between the customer following Meta Asian Kitchen had (the MAK part in the name), Wan’s excellent fare, and the hip and fun vibe of the restaurant, business took off. In the year-plus since the restaurant has been open, Yuen and Wan have offered brunch, hosted pop-ups, and showcased local Asian businesses around town, both on the menu and through their support.
“The food we do here is very much who we are as people,” said Wan. We are focused on the community, that’s why the name is MAK-fam.”
Though brunch was short-lived due to staffing, MAKfam remains a pinnacle in the industry many of us rave about. Last year it made the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand list, which pays homage to great restaurants with moderate prices.
The Food
While MAKfam aims to break the stigma around MSG, which dates back to the 1960s, the ingredient isn’t in every dish. However, said Wan and Yuen, it’s important to know MSG, or Monosodium glutamate, is found in many things we don’t realize and use all the time. For example, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and ketchup, as well as in natural foods such as mushrooms, tomatoes, cheese, and garlic.
That aside, we have yet to have a dish at the small eatery that didn’t wow. Wan said some of the best sellers include Best Sizzling Spicy Noodle ($14.50), a super hot vegan dish made with MAKfam’s own chili oil, málà seasoning, and cabbage. Another favorite, the 24hr Pork Belly Bao (one for $5.50, three for $16), served with scallions, pickled radish, hoisin sauce, and sesame seed on a fluffy milk bun.
Personally, I dream of the Málà Wings ($13.50), a perfectly crisp and wonderfully spicy rendition of the bar food classic. Other quick bites include the Chinatown Dumplings ($10) with chicken and chive, Málà Mozzarella Sticks ($10.50), and crab and cheese rangoons ($11.50).
Go early to get the Steak & Egg “Jian Bing” ($14), which is only served until 4 p.m. each day. It’s worth the lunch date to try the Taiwanese-inspired scallion pancake sandwich stuffed with seared steak, scrambled egg, bean sprouts, herbs, and hoisin and sriracha sauces.
The menu offers plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, gluten-free dishes, and non-spicy plates for those who can’t handle the heat. There’s also an intricate bar program with umami-forward cocktails, Asian-style tiki drinks, and tea from local company, Die Die Must Try. Whether you get a fancy beverage or not, take a look at the custom-made tiki cups. Just be warned, you have to leave your ID if you want to use one.
The MAKfam Takeover
Wan and Yuen have taken over DiningOut’s social media stories today, bringing light to what restaurant life is like for them before it even opens. Turns out Monday is a big shopping and prep day for the couple and restaurant team. We saw them feed Autumn, their 3-year-old daughter, and take her to school. Next they headed to the noodle shop that makes all the noodles for MAKfam. Wan picked up dozens of bags of the fresh noodles, and brought them to the kitchen.
See the complete takeover in our highlights, and enter to win a $100 gift card to MAKfam by commenting, liking, sharing, and following us and the restaurant. The giveaway runs through Friday, and the winner will be announced Monday, March 31 in our stories.
Visit MAKfam Wednesday through Monday starting at 11 a.m. The restaurant stays open until 8:45 p.m. every day, save Friday and Saturday, when it closes at 9:45 p.m. It’s closed every Tuesday. 39 W. 1st Ave, Denver, makfam.co
