White clam pizza might not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Colorado’s pizza scene, but several pizzerias across the Front Range offer the Connecticut classic. The pie originated in New Haven and hit the scene in the 1960s. Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, which is still open today, takes claim for this unusual pie.
The iconic white clam pizza, or, as New Haveners would say, “apizza,” was created by Frank Pepe, who immigrated to the U.S. from his hometown of Naples, Italy, when he was just a teenager. Originally, Pepe’s served freshly-shucked littleneck clams as an appetizer before the chef decided to adorn his pies with the mollusks. The result was a coal-fired, sauceless pizza topped with fresh clams, garlic, olive oil, oregano, and grated pecorino Romano. To this day it remains an Elm City staple.
While clam pizza might have its roots in the Northeast, Front Range pizzerias are putting their own creative spins on it. Here are five places in Denver and beyond where you can get your fix of this beloved rich and briny ‘za.
Ursula’s Parade at Roberta’s Pizza
While the Famous Original and the Bee Sting might be fan favorites at this Brooklyn-based pizzeria, the Ursula’s Parade ($26) is a sleeper hit. Yes, it’s a take on a white clam pizza. The pie mostly stays true to a classic version, but it’s not a true New Haven-style, nor does it pretend to be.
“Our pizza represents Neapolitan style but has that New York influence,” said Cheyenne Langis, lead chef at Roberta’s Denver. “For a New Haven clam pizza, I think of clams cooked in the shell on the pizza, which is definitely an old school way of making a clam pizza…and the crust should be more dense, chewier than you’d see in Neapolitan style.”
Roberta’s version starts with a clam cream sauce, made by reducing fresh clam juice with garlic, cream, and kombu (a type of kelp). On top of the pizza you’ll find thinly-sliced garlic, Calabrian chiles, buffalo mozzarella, and olive oil. A final flourish of citrus gremolata and fresh parsley ties everything together.
According to Langis, the perfect clam pizza requires balance between the brininess of the clams, acidity of the lemon, and some sweetness and spice to round out the pie’s umami quality. Of course the actual clam is important too, and Langis is partial to the East Coast bivalves.
“I believe that cold East Coast waters have the best clams,” she exclaimed. “Growing up in New Hampshire and Massachusetts, I might be biased but Maine has the best.” 1665 N. Grant St., Denver, robertaspizza.com
Cart-Driver’s Famous Clam Pizza
Cart-Driver has been serving clam pizza since opening in 2014, and it’s been a staple on the Italian joint’s menu ever since. In fact, the Clam ($MP) remains of the most popular pies at both Cart-Driver locations. What makes it taste so good is the combination of a house-made sourdough crust, creamy clam sauce (panna), roasted garlic, littleneck clams, lemon, parmesan, and salty pancetta.
“We prefer to source our clams from Prince Edward Island and use littleneck clams,” said executive chef Dave Hollies. “Freshness is always paramount, so we receive several shipments a week directly from farms.”
Known for its wood-fired pizza, Cart-Driver takes inspiration from Southern Italy. In general the pies remain in the Neapolitan wheelhouse, though the chefs have made small tweaks with techniques and ingredients along the way. 2239 West 30th Ave., Denver and 2500 Larimer St., Suite 100, Denver, cart-driver.com
White Clam Pizza at Leven Supply
The recently opened Leven Supply in Washington Park has its own take on clam pizza ($20), made with the bakery’s famous sourdough. Rather than New Haven-style, Hodnett calls Leven’s clam pie “Leven-style.”
“Good pizza always starts at the crust, and ours is naturally leavened sourdough just like our loaves of bread,” said kitchen manager Luke Hodnett. “On top of that we add house-made white sauce, the best low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella you can find, whole roasted garlic cloves and, of course, the clams.”
On top of the pie you’ll find freshly made sourdough breadcrumbs and on the side, a hunk of charred lemon, a signature touch that Leven serves with all its pizzas.
“[Where you source the clams] definitely makes a difference…For this pizza we tried a bunch of different sources until we found the perfect match,” explained Hodnett. “ We landed on a canned ocean clam that is delicious and the perfect texture.”
Inspiration for the pizza comes from an array of styles with Leven’s own, signature flavors. The aforementioned breadcrumbs are part of that, and Hodnett said he feels the restaurant pays homage to some of the best clam pizzas around the country. 300 E. Alameda Ave., Unit D, Denver, eatleven.com
Basta’s Clam
Based in Boulder, Basta has a clam pizza ($30) on its rotating menu. Like all of chef Kelly Whitaker’s concepts in the Id Est hospitality group (The Wolf’s Tailor, Hey Kiddo, Bruto), the main focus is on ingredients.
“Clam pie is all about the clams,” Whittaker explained. “We work with a couple different fisheries and even different styles of clams if the season changes. We might work with littlenecks, but if they’re not available we could switch to Manila clams. Currently on the menu are cherrystone clams from Virginia where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean.”
Basta’s clam pizza cooks the fresh clams with garlic, aromatics, and wine in the eatery’s wood-fire oven. The end result is roasted clams with a pleasing smoky flavor. Once the clams are done, the pizza is built with herbs, garlic confit, house-made panna, herbs, and a bit of salty cheese like pecorino. Never, emphasized Whitaker, does mozzarella or heavy cheeses come into play with this pie.
“This pizza is inspired by Napoletana and New Haven styles, which are both styles that I absolutely love,” said the chef. “If you asked folks from there they would probably tell you it’s neither, but it’s still delicious.” 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, bastaboulder.com
Proto’s Pizzeria Napoletana
Founded in 1999, Proto’s serves clam pizza every Friday at its various locations across the Front Range. The market-price pie stays true to the East Coast tradition, while incorporating its signature thin, crisp crust. The pizzeria allows customers to have it white or red, which both work well with the fresh clams and garlic on top.
And, in case you’re wondering what to drink with a clam pizza, a dirty martini or glass of sparkling wine is perfect. Multiple locations, protospizza.com
