The joys of Thai cuisine go well beyond the usual take-out orders of pad thai and drunken noodles, though we aren’t knocking those beloved dishes. Today it’s so much easier to find really good Thai food in Denver and the surrounding suburbs, often speaking to more traditional flavors and dishes and less on Americanized versions.
Here are two new spots that opened in the last six months or so, as well as an older spot we already loved. Do you have a favorite place to go? And what would you like to see in the local Thai food scene?
Som Dee Thai Kitchen & Bar
After over a year of waiting, Orrapan Botthaisong finally opened Som Dee Thai Kitchen & Bar in Uptown this past December. The plan, she said, was to launch a spot aimed towards date night and finer dining (but not fine dining) to compliment her popular La Mai Thai Kitchen in Edgewater, which she debuted in 2022.
At the new place the menu features elegant Thai dishes both recognizable and traditional. On the latter side, the Crispy Chicken Khao Soi ($23) is a Northern Thai classic featuring egg noodles coated with a yellow coconut curry and topped with crispy noodles, onions, cilantro, and lime. The Somdee Steak ($38) also wowed as each bite of the ribeye tingled with Thai spices and a toasty sticky rice crust. Dipped in jaew sauce, also from the north, and the meat sang in a whole new way.
Pair one of the many craft cocktails with appetizers such as the elegant Chicken Satay ($18) and the super crispy Grandma’s Chicken Wings ($13). The Som Dee Signature offers a pleasing blend of Redemption Rye, Sol Tarasco Rum infused with mushrooms, sweet vermouth, and bitters. Aside from a full bar, find a curated list of sake, beer, and wine as well.
Where the plates give us pleasing tastes, the rooms offer eye candy in the form of graceful lighting fixtures from Thailand, gold accents on dark wood, moody red lighting, and velvety bar seats. It’s both comfortable and sexy, accommodating any diner looking for an upscale experience.
Open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 1598 E. 17th Ave., Denver, somdeethaikitchen.com
Real Thai Mile High
Last fall Real Thai Mile High opened in Aurora on an unassuming corner in a stripmall next to a GW Supermarket and other Asian cafes. Unlike more Americanized Thai restaurants, this one focuses on traditional food and flavors from Laos and Thailand.
Many things sound familiar, such as Basil Fried Rice ($15.95) and Drunken Noodles ($15.95). But a lot of the dishes have additions one might not expect. For example, you can order five versions of papaya salad including Papaya Salad With Salty Crab ($15.95). Also look for Duck Larb ($25.95) and Pad Kra Prow Squid ($16.95), a stir-fried dish with seafood and holy basil. In fact, the latter is the unofficial national dish of Thailand.
Thai street food is also a constant on the menu. Try the Khow Moo Dang ($15.95), a classic rice with red pork and gravy. Or go the chicken route with Khow Mun Gai Ob ($15.95), featuring ginger and garlic in the sauce, and cucumber on the side. Khow Mun Gai Tod ($15.95) is the fried version of the latter dish.
Inside the restaurant the setting offers an eclectic mix of Asian art, with plenty of space for a large group. It’s not fancy, but definitely a worthwhile spot to have lunch or dinner.
Open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. 12201 E. Mississippi Ave., Aurora, realthaimilehighaurora.com
Farmhouse Thai Eatery
On the longer-in-business side, chef May Uree opened Farmhouse Thai in June, 2019 in Lakewood. Since opening it’s been a favorite among Thai food lovers due to the fresh flavors, balanced spice, and a menu of dishes that go beyond the Americanized Thai options. These nuances are thanks to both the chef’s husband, who grew up in northern Thailand, as well as the family’s previous home in California where farmers’ markets reign year round.
The menu also offers nods to Laos and Myanmar, which can be found when carefully looking at the menu. For example, the Burma Tea Party ($13), a salad-like dish comprising imported tea leaves, lettuce, fried garlic, shredded carrot, sesame seeds, split yellow peas, peanuts, and lemon. Also, the spicy Kao Soi ($16), an egg noodle dish with coconut curry sauce and chicken on the bone.
While the restaurant carries Tom Yum ($6) and Tom Kha ($6), it also has another soup not often found on Thai menus. With a name denoting the ingredients, the clear broth comes laden with ground pork, egg, tofu, carrot, mushrooms, cabbage, and roasted garlic for $9. Also try the Luk Chinn Todd ($7) from the appetizer menu, which is a fried meatball with sweet tamarind sauce. For noodles, the usual Pad Thai ($13) and Pad Kee Mao ($14) grace the menu, but opt something new in the Goy See Mee ($14), a dish of crispy egg noodles topped with bamboo shoots, green onion, mushroom, carrot, and Thai Gravy.
Farmhouse Thai remains a hot spot in Lakewood, and still packs in diners. But even if you don’t live in that suburb, it’s worth the trek to eat at the casual spot, or even get food to go if you find yourself in that area.
Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Closed on Monday. 98 Wadsworth Blvd., Lakewood, no website
