In Japan, when a sushi master gets older he doesn’t just retire, he creates a swan song. Kizaki is exactly that for chef Toshi Kizaki, who at 70-years-old decided he wanted to spend his last 10 years making and showcasing edomae-style sushi.
“Kizaki is my vision of retirement [and] I want to finish where I started, making sushi,” said Toshi. “This is the most authentic way for me to reconnect with my roots.”
If the name Toshi Kizaki sounds familiar, it should if you’re a fan of sushi. Toshi opened Sushi Den in 1984 along with his brother Yasu. Since then they have launched Ototo and Izakaya Den. In 2020 Toshi also opened Tamaki Den along with chef Kenta Kamo, a handroll-focused spot inside The Source in RiNo.
Diving Into Edomae-Style Sushi
Now with Kizaki, Toshi brings Denver the chance to experience the edomae tradition through a harmonious omakase. The 200-year-old Tokyo-style sushi style aims to honor the integrity of each ingredient and the Japanese techniques used to make sushi. For example, on a recent visit we were shown oroshiki, the tool used to grate wasabi into a creamy paste. One was covered in shark skin, another in stingray skin. In the end the team opted for a metal version, gifted to Toshi from a sushi master in Japan.
The chef further explains edomae-style sushi as showcasing fish using a range of techniques including raw, cured, seared, and dry-aged preparations, each meant to enhance the natural flavors of each fish. He also features yakimono techniques, a method used to cleanse and reset the palate for the next bite.
“Edomae-style sushi is sushi in its truest form, and Kizaki is a return to my roots as a sushi chef. They go hand in hand,” said Toshi. “An edomae-style omakase experience is completely unique to Denver, and after building Sushi Den for four decades, it’s time that I share this part of my heritage with the community that has supported me for so long.”
What to Expect at Kizaki
Toshi has been making sushi for decades. He was born and raised in Japan and went from Tokyo to Los Angeles and then to Denver, where he’s lived for over four decades. One thing Toshi is known for is importing fresh fish directly from his native Japan, and often from the renowned Nagahama Fish Market in Kyushu, straight to his restaurants.
Each ingredient in the 20-course omakase is meticulously chosen. On the same aforementioned visit the chef decided to skip the uni listed on the menu because it didn’t showcase the sweetness he expected from the order. For the handrolls he uses a seaweed sourced from Japan that, he said during dinner, can only be found at one other restaurant in this country. As for the shari, or sushi rice, it’s elevated with a variety of vinegars to create layers of flavor, slight color variations, and different textures to maximize each bite as a whole. The rice comes from Japan’s famed Niigata Prefecture, an area known for producing some of the finest rice in the world.
“I want diners to know that I took so much time and care to craft an experience that offers a dynamic progression of textures and flavors with thoughtful pacing between raw and cooked dishes to cleanse and reset the palate for the next bite,” said the chef. “I also want diners to know that we focus on every ingredient just as much as the fish itself.”
A Striking Beverage Program
While food certainly shines throughout the evening, the beverage program at Kizaki also radiates. Led by Yuki Minakawa, a certified sake sommelier, the selection includes a sake pairing to go with the experience, wine, Japanese-inspired cocktails, a long list of Japanese whiskies, and beautiful non-alcoholic options.
Minakawa draws from her extensive career at some of the world’s top Japanese restaurants and has created signature cocktails including the Matcha Martini, Shikuwasa Martini featuring a citrus from Okinawa, and a refined tea selection. She works closely with chef Toshi on the program, who personally assembled a collection of rare Japanese whiskies and sakes, many of which are exclusive to Kizaki. Visitors to DenBar can try the cocktail menu any time it’s open, otherwise enjoy Minakawa’s expert pairings during the omakase experience.
The Building
Another unique aspect of Kizaki comes in the building housing it, named Denchu. Toshi designed Denchu in collaboration with Roth Shepard, architect Adam Harding, and Tokyo-based Nemoto Masao. Denchu resides just blocks from the chef’s other acclaimed restaurants, though it’s the first multi-use space he’s done. Toshi even added his own housing above, the place he plans on staying in for as long as possible, even after he hangs up his apron to retire.
Stepping inside, guests at Denchu are embraced by a serene wood-lined hallway, then wowed by the black Brazilian limestone wall behind DenBar. If it’s still light outside the space gets illuminated, giving it almost a greenhouse vibe among the natural touches. The bar and communal table showcase warm woods like sycamore. And that aforementioned stone wall, it’s meant to pay homage to Toshi’s hometown where the ruins of a limestone castle lay.
Eventually chef Justin Fulton will move his contemporary American food pop-up Margot to a permanent spot in Denchu too. But for now the sleek space just houses Kizaki and DenBar. The sense of old, but not ancient, Japan can be found at the bar, sushi room, and even the bathrooms. It’s quiet, clean, simple yet rich, and perforated with warm woods and bits of gold. Just like Toshi, Denchu has refined sensibilities, with enough creativity laced throughout to give it a unique edge. All combined, Kizaki brings to Denver a new way to eat and enjoy sushi.
Visit Kizaki Thursday through Sunday at one of two seatings at 5:30 p.m. or 8:30 p.m. Guests are asked to arrive 30 minutes prior to dinner. Reservations are $225 per person, paid in advance through OpenTable. Drinks, extra pieces of sushi, and gratuities are not included. 1551 S. Pearl St., Denver, no website
