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Natural wine is the highlight at ESP HiFi. | Photo by Jordan Pope

Behind the Bar: Learning How to Listen at ESP HiFi

The elegant Santa Fe wine bar puts a Denver spin on Japan’s historical kissa bar tradition.

BY Sara Rosenthal

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One does not simply stumble on ESP HiFi, its Santa Fe Drive entrance barely leaves a mark. No, guests of this thoughtful Japanese kissa inspired listening bar long to immerse themselves in sound while settling in with a glass of wine and maybe a companion. 

It’s easy to see the appeal. The relaxing space housing ESP drips in earth tones and soft lighting, and comes adorned with mid-century modern furniture and lush shrubbery. Most noticeable is the warm, crackling sound of vinyl spinning on a meticulously tuned sound system. 

A recent visit found co-owner William Minter behind the bar, which showcases thousands records sourced from Japan, rather than bottles of booze. Though rest assured, wine and cocktails are on the menu. As Minter calmly switched out vinyls, he curated a vibe to engulf the patrons in a dreamlike state. 

During the day guests can see the details of ESP HiFi, though at night it gets cozier. | Photo by Ivy Wild Visuals
During the day guests can see the details of ESP HiFi, though at night it gets cozier. | Photo by Ivy Wild Visuals

“It’s really a mood thing,” he explained as Nick Drake’s 1972 Pink Moon album played in the background. “Ideally, a lot of the records I’ve sourced for the back bar have a really warm sound in one way or another. But I don’t want to exclude music just because it’s a little rough around the edges. If a record’s good enough, it’ll go up there too.”

Bringing Japanese Kissa Culture to Denver

Minter’s business partner Mitchell Foster was inspired to bring the listening bar culture to the Mile High after hearing rave reviews from a friend about the Tokyo tradition. Knowing Minter already had a solid record collection and a background in the service industry, Foster approached him with the idea of creating something similar in the U.S. 

“We visited In Sheep’s Clothing in Los Angeles (a now-closed listening bar) when they still had their brick-and-mortar spot,” said Minter. “After that, we went to Japan ourselves and visited 30 or 40 places like this and fully immersed ourselves in it. That was basically all we did on that trip, which was fantastic.”

Seating is casual, the music perfect, and the wine program great at ESP HiFi. | Photo by Linnea Covington
Seating is casual, the music perfect, and the wine program great at ESP HiFi. | Photo by Linnea Covington

That trip solidified their vision for ESP HiFi, a space that combines hospitality with musicality. A big part of the intention behind the music at ESP HiFi is to open people up to new artists. While Minter plays some classics and familiar tracks, he prefers the deep cuts. 

“Tokyo, and Japan in general, is really well known for its deep record digging culture,” Minter continued. “That first trip to Japan was definitely mind-expanding. It made me realize how far down the rabbit hole some people go.”

Sunday and Monday daytime hours offer a quieter, more authentic kissa experience, while evenings, especially mid-week and weekends, have more of a high-energy, social vibe. The space aims to balance Japanese-style listening culture with the Western idea of a bar, offering something for everyone.

Aiyana Thoma, wine director of ESP HiFi. | Photo by Jordan Pope
Aiyana Thoma, wine director of ESP HiFi. | Photo by Jordan Pope

Drinking and Eating at ESP HiFi

The beverage menu features an extensive selection of natural wines, which pairs well with the space’s down-to-earth feel. The wine list doesn’t just complement the moody, romantic vibe, it helps define it. 

Wine director Aiyana Thoma describes natural wine as a spectrum rather than a strict category. “There’s no black-and-white definition, but the adage I learned when I started bartending was nothing added, nothing taken away,” Thoma said.

For her, that means focusing on wines made with minimal intervention, organically or biodynamically farmed grapes, hand-harvested fruit, spontaneous fermentation, and as little sulfur as possible. The result is a selection of wines that are intensely expressive of the terroir they come from.

“These wines don’t wear a mask,” she added. “They feel vibrant and pure and you can taste the energy of the people who made them.”

The door to ESP HiFi is barely marked, and you need to be looking for it to find it. | Photo by Linnea Covington
The door to ESP HiFi is barely marked, and you need to be looking for it to find it. | Photo by Linnea Covington

The producers she works with are often farming small family plots. She’s especially excited by wines from France’s Alsace and Jura regions, and Italian bottles from Lazio, as well as low-intervention Colorado wines like those from Aquila Cellars on the Western Slope.

Thoma’s approach to the wine list is as much philosophical as it is sensory. She said she curates the menu based on “what suits the space, what’s moody, what’s romantic, what’s thought-provoking.” She balances the esoteric with the accessible, offering familiar names like pinot noir and sauvignon blanc in unexpected expressions, helping new drinkers expand their palates without intimidation.

The bar also offers a thoughtful selection of cocktails and zero-proof options, along with an ever-evolving food program. Seasonal pop-ups often take place just outside the bar’s entrance, including collaborations with local favorites like Monarch Pizza. ESP also hosts a monthly wine and music event, pairing a region’s wines with its signature sounds. Italian wine and disco, for example, were previously on the docket. 

ESP HiFi, Part Of the Community

As much as ESP is about aesthetics, it’s also about ethics. Thoma’s program reflects deep environmental and social care. 

“A lot of the winemakers I support aren’t making a ton of money,” she shared. “They’re just trying to farm well and make something honest.”

Records, wine, cocktails, and a great vibe are found at ESP HiFi, though at night it gets cozier. | Photo by Ivy Wild Visuals
Records, wine, cocktails, and a great vibe are found at ESP HiFi, though at night it gets cozier. | Photo by Ivy Wild Visuals

The venue is preparing for its outdoor event series during the warmer months during the first Friday of the month from May to October. Events will take place both inside and in the parking lot just north of the space, featuring a four-point outdoor sound system, food trucks and a rotating lineup of mostly local DJs, with occasional international guests, including from Japan. It’s also planning early-release album listening events, often highlighting experimental or analog artists. Previous events featured artists like Animal Collective and Beth Gibbons. Daytime events may focus on lesser-known experimental artists, while nighttime events feature more recognizable names.

“There’s so much incredible music out there that doesn’t get the same exposure or financial backing as major label artists, whether through social media, touring or streaming,” said Minter. “So we try to create a space where people can discover something new.”

Visit ESP HiFi Sunday and Monday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and again from 5 to 11 p.m.; Tuesday 4 to 11 p.m.; and Wednesday through Saturday from 4 p.m. to midnight. 1029 Santa Fe Dr., Denver, esphifi.co

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Sara Rosenthal

Sara Rosenthal is a freelance writer based in Denver focused on hospitality, restaurants, real estate, and art. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, hot yoga, hiking, and hanging out with her dog, Lucy. Learn more about Rosenthal’s work at saramrosenthal.com.
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