Wynkoop Brewing Co. isn’t just a craft brewery, it’s an icon in the Denver beer scene. Over the years the food program has also grown, and now chef Corey Smith runs the show, bringing decades of experience to the kitchen.
Want to learn more? Read on to discover the history of this talented chef, and follow along as Smith takes us behind the scenes on Thursday, February 13. During that time he will share a day in his life while showcasing the menu and space. That’s right, it’s a chef takeover, and we can’t wait to watch along with you.
The Restaurant
When Wynkoop Brewing Co. opened on October 18, 1988, founded by Jerry Williams, Mark Schiffler, Russell Schehrer, and John Hickenlooper. Yes, that Hickenlooper, who became Mayor of Denver, then Governor, and now holds a seat in the U.S. Senate. The politician gave up his venture when he took to office, and today the restaurant and brewery is owned and run by Breckenridge-Wynkoop Holdings, which also oversees the Cherry Cricket locations and Phantom Canyon Brewing Company in Colorado Springs.
While leadership has changed, Wynkoop still resides in the historic J. S. Brown Mercantile Building, right on the corner of Wynkoop and 18th Streets, near Denver Union Station. Once inside, visitors get the sense of the past with space’s thick wood accents, three floors, and an old saloon vibe.
On the top floor find a classic pool hall with 15 tournament-sized billiards tables. Full service dinner and lunch seating resides on the ground floor, as well as the large bar, which offers stools on each side. Head downstairs for the bathrooms, new tasting room, and for a view of the brew tanks. You may even see head brewer Kat Hess working on them.
Take a seat. Take a tour. Take a beer. No matter your path, it’s one Denver spot everyone needs to visit at least once.
The Chef
Born and raised in New Orleans, Smith grew up in a large family where food and drink were the centerpiece of every gathering. He came to Colorado to play football for CU Boulder, and helped bring the team to the 1994 championships. Football aside, cooking and being in the kitchen had always had a strong pull for him.
Eventually he went home to attend culinary school in New Orleans. There, he trained under some of the city’s most respected chefs, including Dominique Macquet at the Maison Dupuy Hotel, as well as industry legends like Emeril Lagasse and Susan Spicer.
Smith returned to Colorado to begin working under Kevin Taylor at several of his restaurants. During this time he deepened his understanding of the local culinary landscape. Around 2000 he trained with James Mazzio, a Food & Wine celebrated chef and the person Smith refers to as his biggest mentor. With Mazzio he refined his skills in balancing flavors and crafting visually-stunning dishes.
Next Smith moved to the role as executive chef at Mateo in Boulder. There he worked under Matthew Jansen and expanded his knowledge around wine pairings. When Mateo closed, Smith moved on and landed at Wynkoop in May, 2024. While Smith originally didn’t want to lead the kitchen, eventually he took on that role and now dishes out solid takes on pub food, even adding pizza to the menu after discovering unused pizza ovens in the kitchen.
“At the end of the day,” said Smith, “we want people to walk in, feel comfortable, enjoy their meal, and leave feeling like they got something special, whether it’s a classic dish or a new beer discovery.”
The Menu
At Wynkoop, the menu highlights Colorado ingredients with local meats, produce, and regional flavors. Smith also embraces the beer aspect, using it to lead food and drink pairings by matching the hoppy, citrus, rich, and woody nuances with food.
“Beer can spark great conversations, and we approach each beer individually, matching light beers with delicate dishes, balancing hoppy brews with rich, fatty flavors, and pairing stouts with heartier options,” Smith explained. “It’s an ongoing process of learning for our team, and we pass that knowledge along to our guests through our servers and use these pairings to enhance the dining experience.”
Popular dishes include The Wynkoop Burger ($19.50), which features an all-natural Colorado bison patty with smoked gouda, pickled onions, green chili mayo, and arugula on a brioche bun. The Fish & Chips ($17) uses Railyard Amber Ale in the batter on crispy cod, which gets finished with coleslaw, tartar sauce, and lemon. Another favorite, the Grilled Pork Chop ($19.50), is rubbed with garlic and smoked paprika, then served with boudin rice, sautéed shrimp, trinity sauce, and scallions. Each dish is thoughtfully paired with a beer suggestion from the waitstaff, keeping your preferences in mind.
While some dishes remain constants, the menu evolves with the seasons, changing twice a year. And as of the Superbowl last Sunday, February 9, pizza has been added to the menu with planned specials to reflect Smith’s personal tastes, and the time of year.
“Spring and summer bring lighter dishes, while fall and winter feature heartier fare,” added the chef. “We work with local purveyors and test new ingredients while staying in tune with trends to keep things fresh. If it’s not broken, we don’t fix it, but we always look for ways to showcase Colorado ingredients in the best light.”
The Takeover
Mark your calendars for Thursday, February 13, when Smith takes over the DiningOut Denver Instagram stories for an exclusive behind-the-scenes glimpse into his day. Watch as he and his team bring Wynkoop Brewing Co.’s standout dishes to life, sharing insights into the process of pairing craft beer with food to create an unforgettable experience.
Plus, comment, follow, like, and share for a chance to win a $100 gift card so you can enjoy the Wynkoop experience firsthand. It’s the perfect opportunity to explore the menu and discover the joy of pairing beer with food.
Wynkoop is open daily, serving lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to midnight on Sunday through Thursday, and until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. 1634 18th St., Denver, wynkoop.com
